The Winkie drill is powered by a 10 HP, 2 cycle, air-cooled, high speed gasoline engine. If the following instructions are observed, you may be assured of dependable and long service. 

   Fuel: 

1. For normal operation : Use one ¹/₃ pint us Marine Corporation Oil (BIA-TWC) or equivalent with each gallon of gasoline (24:1 gas to oil mix or use 2 cycle engine oil mix and follow the manufacturers instructions). 
2. When operating in extreme cold weather you may add one pint of diesel fuel oil to one gallon of your regular Winkie Mix. As above item A explained, this will eliminate the stalling due to the non-detergent oil congealing in the carburetor.

 
1. Move the choke lever to choke position (move toward the air filter).
2. Open the throttle about 2 or 3 clicks..
3. Crank the engine by pulling the recoil starter handle. A short, quick pull, allowing the no more than two (2) feet of rope to be exposed assures quicker and easier starting. Crank the engine twice with full choke on 3 turns with full choke in cold weather.  Turn the choke off and crank with no choke. After this, the engine should start. 
When starting a warm engine, choking is not necessary. Choking a warm engine or excessively choking a cold engine can cause flooding. If this occurs, continue cranking engine with no choke until it starts or wait several minutes before cranking with little or no choke.

To stop the engine, close choke.

Caution:

Before operating drill or starting engine, fill the gear case with high-speed transmission oil.

Capacity of gear case one (1) quart. With temperatures of less than 40 degrees F it may be necessary to thin the oil with any good SAE 30 weight oil. In unusual circumstances when the aforementioned is not readily available use SAE 40 weight oil in plus 40 degrees F, and SAE 30 weight oil in minus 40 degrees F. Fill the gear case so that the oil just runs out the filler hole when the drill is held in an upright position.

 
• Tighten all nuts and screws after each fifty (50) hours of operation or as needed.

Never attempt to add or take off drill rods while the engine is idling. If in doubt about any operation STOP AND THINK!

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  Spark plug (Autolite 425):

Check plug periodically. Oily or carboned plug causes starting difficulty. Some plugs may operate for hours and then prove defective requiring replacement. 

The spark plug should be cleaned, and the points set at 0.030 inches. If there is any doubt of the condition of the plug, it should be replaced with original equipment (same type).

  Magneto:

Breaker point gap must be maintained at 0.015 inches. Set points with cam follower at index mark on breaker cam.

  Air Filter

Under ordinary operating conditions, the air cleaner should be cleaned daily. Under extremely dirty conditions, more frequent cleaning is absolutely necessary. Replace when necessary.

Cleaning may be accomplished by washing in detergent and water. Make sure the air filter is dry before reusing. Apply light oil to the air filter, remove excess oil, and install the air filter.

  Muffler and Exhaust Ports:

The muffler and the exhaust ports should be cleaned every fifty (50) hours if the engine is running under continuous full load conditions and every one hundred (100) to one hundred fifty (150) hours if the engine is running under lighter loads. Clean the exhaust ports if the engine loses power.

To clean the cylinder exhaust ports, remove the muffler and spark plug, then turn the starter pulley so that the piston is at the bottom stroke, below the exhaust holes. With any blunt instrument, scrape the carbon from the three (3) cylinder exhaust holes so that they are completely open and remove the carbon from the surrounding exhaust chamber. Crank the engine several times to blow out the loosened carbon. Replace the spark plug and muffler.

  Throttle Linkage:

For proper engine operation, throttle linkage, and carburetor throttle shaft and spring, must be free of all foreign material. Check each time the engine is used and clean if necessary.

  Carburetor Adjustments:

These three (3) adjustments are on the carburetor:

 
1. High speed at full load adjustment, marked by a stamping on the carburetor housing with the letter "H".
2. Low speed (no load) adjustment, marked by a stamping on the carburetor housing with the letter "L".
3. Idle speed adjustment, merely is an adjustable set screw to increase, or decrease the distance the carburetor throttle shaft may travel.

This was previously referred to as the full load adjustment. This has been properly adjusted before leaving the factory and should not be tampered with needlessly. When attempting an adjustment, do it drilling at full throttle. To adjust the engine, the unit must be under load. This adjustment may be made by ear. Rotate the adjustment screw slowly first to the left, then to the right until the engine speeds up and rums at the smoothest tempo. Do not run with screw less than one (1) full turn open. If screw is less than one (1) full turn open the proper amount of lubricant cannot enter. For normal operation use one and one half (1-¹/₂) turn

  Low Speed Adjustment:

This again has been set at the factory and need not be tampered with unless deemed absolutely necessary. When an adjustment is necessary, run the machine at an idle without load, adjusting in the same manner as the High Speed Adjustment. Adjustment should be normally one and one quarter (1-¹/₄) turn for low speed.

  Idle Speed Adjustment:

This adjustment may be governed to suit an individual's preference. If the engine runs too fast at idle speed, turn the idle stop screw counter-clockwise until the desired idling speed is obtained. To increase the idling speed, turn the idle stop screw clockwise.

NOTE: Two cycle engines, when running under light loads, may appear to miss. 

This in no way affects the operation of the engine.

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  Should the Engine Fail to Start:

 
1. Check for fuel in the fuel tank and check to see that the shutoff valve is open. Check fuel line and screen for clogs.
2. Check for spark; remove the spark plug and, with magneto wire attached, hold the base of the plug against the engine, crank engine. A spark should jump across the plug points. If it does not, clean the plug or replace with new one.
3. Check magneto; hold spark plug wire ³/₁₆" from engine, spark should jump from the terminal to the engine when cranked. If no spark occurs, test the condenser and coil. If faulty, replace.
4. Check for flooding. Remove spark plug and if plug is wet or if gap is closed by liquid fuel, the plug should be dried and with shut-off valve closed the engine should be cranked until vapor stops coming out of spark plug hole. Re-insert plug and open shut-off valve.
5. Check for gasket leaks and for leaks around the crankshaft seal.

Check the flow of air over the cylinder. If restricted by grease or dirt, remove the air shroud and clean cylinder fins. Be sure to use correct fuel mixture. Use a clean container for mixing oil and fuel. Never use synthetic oil.

  Should the Engine Knock:

Check connecting rod bearing; move flywheel back and forth quickly a few degrees; if rod is worn, play can be felt and a loud click can de heard; if worn, replace. Check piston and pin; if worn replace.

  Should Engine Lack Power:

 
1. Check carburetor adjustments. See preceding instructions.
2. Check for carbon. If exhaust ports and muffler are restricted by carbon, scrape clean.
3. Check compression. Remove spark plug and place compression gage in cylinder spark plug hole. After cranking the engine several times, the gage should register 90 lb. or more. If compression is faulty, remove and replace piston rings. 
4. Check for proper fuel mixture. Make sure fuel is completely mixed.
5. Check cylinder, carburetor, reed plate and transfer port gaskets for leaks. Also, check for leaks around the crankshaft seals. The governor cover and magneto must be removed for this check.