Updated: April, 2004-
Raghavendra R. Hegde, Atul Dahiya, M. G. Kamath
(Xiao Gao and Praveen Kumar Jangala)
Cotton
today is the most used textile fiber in the world. Its current market share is
56 percent for all fibers used for apparel and home furnishings and sold in the
2.
Cotton Consumption And Production in Million Tons in Year 2002
The graph bellow shows Production and consumption of leading cotton producing countries in Millions of tones in year 2002 [5].
|
Countries |
Production |
Consumption |
|
US |
3.8 |
1.7 |
|
|
2.5 |
3 |
|
|
1.8 |
1.9 |
|
|
0.9 |
1.4 |
|
|
0.7 |
0.9 |
|
|
0.4 |
0.6 |
|
|
4.8 |
5.9 |


Today,
cotton is grown in more than 80 countries worldwide. The Distribution of cotton
is shown in the bellow Map:

Cotton, as a natural cellulosic fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as;
4.
End Uses of Cotton:
5. STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES OF COTTON FIBERS
The
botanical name of American Upland cotton is Gossypium Hirsutum and has
been developed from cottons of

Each cotton
fiber is composed of concentric layers. The cuticle layer on the fiber itself
is separable from the fiber and consists of wax and pectin materials. The
primary wall, the most peripheral layer of the fiber, is composed of cellulosic
crystalline fibrils. [9] The secondary wall of the fiber consists of three
distinct layers. All three layers of the secondary wall include closely packed
parallel fibrils with spiral winding of 25-35o and represent the
majority of cellulose within the fiber. The innermost part of cotton fiber- the
lumen- is composed of the remains of the cell contents. Before boll opening,
the lumen is filled with liquid containing the cell nucleus and protoplasm. The
twists and convolutions of the dried fiber are due to the removal of this
liquid. The cross section of the fiber is bean-shaped, swelling almost round
when moisture absorption takes place.
The overall
contents are broken down into the following components.
5.2 Raw cotton components:
|
80-90% |
Cellulose |
|
6-8% |
Water |
|
0.5 - 1% |
Waxes and fats |
|
0 - 1.5% |
Proteins |
|
4 - 6% |
Hemicelluloses and
pectin’s |
|
1 - 1.8% |
Ash |
During
scouring (treatment of the fiber with caustic soda), natural waxes and fats in
the fiber are saponified and pectin’s and other non-cellulose materials are
released, so that the impurities can be removed by just rinsing away. After
scouring, a bleaching solution (consisting of a stabilized oxidizing agent)
interacts with the fiber and the natural color is removed. Bleaching takes
place at elevated temperature for a fixed period of time [1]. Mercerization is
another process of improving sorption properties of cotton. Cotton fiber is
immersed into 18- 25% solution of sodium hydroxide often under tension [9]. The
fiber obtains better luster and sorption during mercerization.
After
scouring and bleaching, the fiber is 99% cellulose. Cellulose is a polymer
consisting of anhydroglucose units connected with 1,4 oxygen bridges in the
beta position. The hydroxyl groups on the cellulose units enable hydrogen
bonding between two adjacent polymer chains. The degree of polymerization of
cotton is 9,000-15,000 [1]. Cellulose shows approximately 66% crystallinity,
which can be determined by X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and density
methods.
Each
crystal unit consists of five chains of anhydroglucose units, parallel to the
fibril axis. One chain is located at each of the corners of the cell and one
runs through the center of the cell. The dimensions of the cell are a =
0.835nm, b = 1.03 nm and c = 0.79 nm. The angle between ab and BC planes is 84º
for normal cellulose, i.e., Cellulose I [8].
5.3 Repeat unit of cellulose
The current
consensus regarding cellulose crystallinity (X-ray diffraction) is that fibers
are essentially 100% crystalline and that very small crystalline units
imperfectly packed together cause the observed disorder.
The density
method used to determine cellulose crystallinity is based on the density
gradient column, where two solvents of different densities are partially mixed.
Degree of Crystallinity is, then, determined from the density of the sample,
while densities of crystalline and amorphous cellulose forms are known (1.505
and 1.556 respectively). Orientation of untreated cotton fiber is poor because
the crystallites are contained in the micro fibrils of the secondary wall,
oriented in the steep spiral (25-30o) to the fiber axis.

6.1 FIBER
LENGTH
Fiber
length is described [7] as "the average length of the longer one-half of
the fibers (upper half mean length)" This measure is taken by scanning a
"beard " of parallel fibers through a sensing region. The beard is
formed from the fibers taken from the sample, clasped in a holding clamp and
combed to align the fibers. Typical lengths of Upland cottons might range from
0.79 to 1.36in.
Cottons
come from the cotton plant; the longer strand types such as Pima or
6.2 LENGTH
UNIFORMITY
Length
uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as " a ratio between the mean
length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is expressed as a
percentage"[7]. Typical comparisons are illustrated below.
|
LENGTH UNIFORMITY |
UNIFORMITY INDEX [%] |
|
Very High |
>85 |
|
High |
83-85 |
|
Intermediate |
80-82 |
|
Low |
77-79 |
|
Very Low |
<77 |
Low
uniformity index shows that there might be a high content of short fibers,
which lowers the quality of the future textile product.
Fiber
strength is measured in grams per denier. It is determined as the force
necessary to break the beard of fibers, clamped in two sets of jaws, (1/8 inch
apart) [7]. Typical tensile levels are illustrated. The breaking strength of
cotton is about 3.0~4.9 g/denier, and the breaking elongation is about 8~10%.
[20]
|
DEGREE OF
STRENGTH |
FIBER STRENGTH [g/tex] |
|
Very Strong |
>31 |
|
Strong |
29-30 |
|
Average |
26-28 |
|
Intermediate |
24-25 |
|
Weak |
<23 |
6.3 MICRONAIRE
Micronaire
measurements reflect fiber fineness and maturity. A constant mass (2.34 grams)
of cotton fibers is compressed into a space of known volume and air
permeability measurements of this compressed sample are taken. These, when
converted to appropriate number, denote Micronaire values.
|
|
MICRONAIRE |
|
Premium |
3.7-4.2 |
|
|
4.3-4.9 |
|
|
>5.0 |
6.4 COLOR
The color
of cotton samples is determined from two parameters: degree of reflectance (Rd)
and yellowness (+b). Degree of reflectance shows the brightness of the sample
and yellowness depicts the degree of cotton pigmentation. A defined area
located in a Nickerson-Hunter cotton colorimeter diagram represents each color
code. The color of the fibers is affected by climatic conditions, impact of
insects and fungi, type of soil, storage conditions etc. There is five
recognized groups of color: white, gray, spotted, tinged, and yellow stained.
As the color of cotton deteriorates, the process ability of the fibers
decreases.
Work at the
6.5 TRASH
A trash
measurement describes the amount of non-lint materials (such as parts of cotton
plant) in the fiber. Trash content is assessed from scanning the cotton sample
surface with a video camera and calculating the percentage of the surface area
occupied by trash particles. The values of trash content should be within the
range from 0 to 1.6%. Trash content is highly correlated to leaf grade of the
sample.
6.6 LEAF
GRADE
Leaf grade
is provided visually as the amount of cotton plant particles within the sample.
There are seven leaf grades (#1-#7) and one below grade (#8).
6.7 PREPARATION
Preparation
is the classer's interpretation of fiber process ability in terms of degree of
roughness or smoothness of ginned cotton.
6.8 EXTRANEOUS MATTER
Extraneous
matter is all the material in the sample other than fiber and leaf. The classer
either as “light” or “heavy” determines the degree of extraneous matter.
6.9 NEPS
A nep is a small tangled fiber knot often caused by processing. Neps can be measured by the AFIS nep tester and reported as the total number of neps per 0.5 grams of the fiber and average size in millimeters. Nep formation reflects the mechanical processing stage, especially from the point of view of the quality and condition of the machinery used.
7.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON
Cotton
swells in a high humidity environment, in water and in concentrated solutions
of certain acids, salts and bases. The swelling effect is usually attributed to
the sorption of highly hydrated ions. The moisture regain for cotton is about 7.1~8.5%
and the moisture absorption is 7~8%. [20]
Cotton is
attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated acid solutions. Acid hydrolysis of
cellulose produces hydro-celluloses. Cold weak acids do not affect it. The
fibers show excellent resistance to alkalis. There are a few other solvents
that will dissolve cotton completely. One of them is a copper complex of
cupramonium hydroxide and cupriethylene diamine (Schweitzer's reagent [11])
Cotton
degradation is usually attributed to oxidation, hydrolysis or both. Oxidation
of cellulose can lead to two types of so-called oxy-cellulose [12], depending
on the environment, in which the oxidation takes place.
7.1 Insert formula or equation: Oxy-cellulose
Also,
cotton can degrade by exposure to visible and ultraviolet light, especially in
the presence of high temperatures around 250~397° C [20]
and humidity. Cotton fibers are extremely susceptible to any biological
degradation (microorganisms, fungi etc.)
7.2 OPTICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON
Cotton
fibers show double refraction when observed in polarized light. Even though
various effects can be observed, second order yellow and second order blue is
characteristic colors of cellulosic fibers. [10] A typical birefringence value
as shown in the table of physical properties, is 0.047.
7.3 COTTON CLASSIFICATION
Cotton classification is used to determine the quality of the cotton fiber in terms of grade, length and Micronaire [1]. USDA [7] classification specifically identifies the characteristics of fiber length, length uniformity, strength, Micronaire, color, preparation, leaf and extraneous matter. In the past, these qualities were classified just by hand-and-eye of an experienced classer. Since 1991, all classification has been carried out with a set of up-to-date instruments, called "HVI"(High Volume Instrumentation) classification [1]. However, measuring techniques of other qualities of cotton fiber, such as fiber maturity and short fiber content, are also being developed.
7.4. COTTON IN NON-WOVENS
Cotton is
the most important apparel fiber throughout the world. It is a fiber that was
used fairly extensively during the early, developmental period of the Nonwovens
business primarily because the emerging dry-laid producers came from the
textile industry and had an intimate knowledge of cotton and its processing
characteristics [25].It was in the early part of 20th Century that a few cotton
mills in the US wanted to find ways to upgrade the waste cotton fibers into
saleable products. The first method used was bonding the short cotton fibers
(fiber waste) with latex and resin. These products were used mainly as
industrial wipes. After World War II, products like draperies, tablecloths,
napkins and wiping towels were developed. It was realized that woven fabrics
have much better properties than Nonwovens; so, the approach was to claim the
market where superior qualities of woven or knit fabrics were not essential but
where qualities better than those of paper were needed. As the quality
requirements for nonwoven fabrics increased and particularly as the need for
white, clean fabric emerged; the use of raw cotton became unacceptable and was
abandoned by the industry except for a few isolated product areas. Within the
last decade, bleached cotton fiber suitable for processing on conventional
nonwoven equipment has become available and has substantially increased
interest in this fiber. This is particularly true in medical and healthcare
applications, wiping and wiper markets, and some apparel markets. The raw
cotton consists of about 96% cellulose and 4% of waxes, pectin, and other
pertinacious and plant material. These minor constituents that must be removed
in the scouring and bleaching process to give the soft, clean, white, absorbent
fiber that is satisfactory for the nonwovens industry after the application of
an appropriate finishing oil. The fiber length of cotton is important,
particularly as to its process ability. Longer staple cotton (0.75 in. to 1.25
in.) is satisfactory for nonwoven production. The fiber has excellent absorbency
and feels comfortable against the skin. It has fairly good strength both wet
and dry, and has moderate dimensional stability and elastic recovery. But the
resilience of cotton is relatively low, unless it is cross-linked by a chemical
treatment. In nonwoven applications, the purity and absorbency of bleached
cotton are utilized in growing medical and healthcare applications. The spun
lace process usually produces such fabrics. For similar reasons, cotton spun
lace fabrics are well accepted in personal and related wipes, especially in
8. FIBER
PROCESSING
About 30% of world cotton
machines harvest production.
a) Fiber opening and cleaning
b) Alkali scouring application
c) Alkali reaction stage
d) Rinsing
e) Bleach application
f) Bleach reaction stage
g) Rinsing
h) Finish application
i) Drying
A continuous textile
processing system and method have been disclosed recently for producing a
nonwoven web containing bleached cotton fibers in a single line system which
includes a supply of fibers such as a bale opening device, The final nonwoven
web consisting of bleached cotton fibers may be made into highly purified and
absorbent wipes, pads, and other articles for medical, industrial, or domestic
use [17].
Finally, there is opening and
bale formation.
·
Cotton
Incorporated patented a
processing line, which promised better productivity and quality. It consists
of:
a) Fiber opening and
Cleaning
b) Formation of web
c) Steam purging and Alkali impregnation onto the sandwiched cotton web between
2 porous conveyors.
d) After reaction, a pressure
squeezing operation.
e) Similar processes for bleaching and then finishing.
·
The
recent system for scouring a bleaching of cotton fiber is the Continuous Wet
Finishing Technique' patented by Lawrence Girard and Walter E Meyer and
assigned to Greenville Machinery Corporation. It consists of:
Advantages of Continuous
Finishing Techniques are:
a) Uniformity of scouring and
bleaching
b) Uniformity of finish application
c) Shorter time in process for the materials
d) Lower water consumption and less effluent for treatment
e) The ability to provide additional chemical treatments to the cotton.
8.1. COST OF PRODUCING COTTON
The
international cotton advisory committee (ICAC) undertakes a survey of the cost
of the production of cotton every three years based on the data from 31
countries. [16] Several factors are considered, such as land rent, fertilizers,
insect control, irrigation, harvesting and ginning. The cost of seed cotton is
more than $500 in
8.2. WEB PROCESSING WITH COTTON
Cotton
fibers are used in the manufacture of nonwovens either alone or in a blend. The
various processes for the manufacture of non-wovens are:
8.3. HYDROENTANGLEMENT:
This method of bonding provides strength to the Nonwovens, comparable to woven fabric of the same basis weight. This method yields high strength without interfering with the absorbency, tensile strength and aesthetic properties of cotton. This type of nonwovens can be wet processed like the conventional woven textiles for bleaching, dyeing and finishing. To manufacture soft loose nonwovens, partially entangled webs are produced by subjecting cotton webs to low water jet pressures (approx. 300-500 psi). These types of webs can be wet processed in a pad/batch state. The limitations of this process are that production has been limited to fiber blends because of problems in recycling water and the quality of bleached cotton.
8.4. NEEDLE
PUNCHING:
Needle punched cotton provides highly efficient filter media based on the irregular fiber shape and absorption properties. Increased tenacity in the wet condition can be an important advantage for cotton filters. To build strength, scrim materials can be used as in bed blankets and industrial fabrics. Needles of 36-42 gauges have been found appropriate for the production of cotton needle punched nonwovens. For very heavy fabrics, use is made of gauge 32 and for finer fabrics 40-42 gauge needles are being used.
8.5. THERMAL
BONDING:
In this process cotton webs with blends of thermoplastic fibers are passed between 2 hot rollers (Calendar rollers). The thermoplastic fiber softens/melts and bonds the web. The initial work was done with polyester as the thermoplastic fiber. Later polypropylene was extended for the study because of economics, density and melting temperature considerations. This was mainly to study the application as a diaper lining material. Substantial work is still being done to develop this type of nonwovens.
8.6. OTHER
BONDING SYSTEMS:
9. APPLICATIONS
AND MANUFACTURERS OF COTTON NON-WOVENS
Cotton
nonwovens are used as swabs, puffs, wipes, filters, weddings, personal care
products like in diapers & feminine hygiene products, semi-durable segments
like bedding, household furnishing, pillow fillers, etc.
9.1.MANUFACTURERS OF COTTON
10. RECENT
RESEARCH
10.1.1 COLORED COTTON

Cotton
fiber is dyed with chemical dyes in order to get wide range of colors. These
chemical dyes and their finishing demands large amount of water in turn when
these water is disposed they cause soil and water pollution. Many dyes are of
chemical origin; particularly the azure ones and these are not environment
friendly. Hence many countries, including
The
negative effects of dyeing can be reduced by naturally colored cotton. This
colored cotton is developed by gene transplantation. Crossing the
genes from wild cotton varieties with the cultivated white ones develops this
colored cotton. The research is being conducted at The University of
Agricultural Sciences (UAS), Dharwad Karnataka
10.1.2. BT
COTTON
Cotton requires severe pesticide in order to combat numerous
pests after some years of use of pesticide by farmers these pests develop
resistance to Particular pesticide. This resistance force farmers to use more
amounts of pesticides. BT Cotton is developed by transgenic technique of
implanting Bacillus Thuringiens bacterial gene in to cottonseeds, which makes
the cotton plant and seeds resistant to majority of pests including bollworm (A. Lepidoptera), Tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens). Bt
cotton is now one of the most widely used transgenic crops. It is currently
grown throughout the
10.1.3 COTTON’S
FUTURE TRENDS
The world's
cotton fiber production is approximately 89 million bales [6]. In 1997, a
production forecast [6] shows that the U.S. is the largest cotton producer
(18.4 million bales), followed by China (17.5 million bales), India (12.8
million bales), Pakistan (8.0 million bales) and the former U. S. S. R.
republics (7.7 million bales). Other important cotton producers are Australia,
Egypt, Turkey, Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Greece and Mexico. The highest
cotton consumption is attributed to China (21.2 million bales), India (12.9
million bales) and U.S. (11.3 million bales).
Supplies: The world production will increase a little bit. The 1998 U.S cotton crop is best described as a disaster due to cool wet spring in the west and inadequate rainfall in the southeast [24].
Consumption: World cotton consumption is lagging a bit behind production. After a surge in the mid-1980s, world cotton consumption has been rather flat. But the long term potential for cotton demand remains large [23].
All cotton plantings for 1999 are expected to total 14.6 million acres, 9 percent above 1998, and 5 percent greater than 1997. Upland cotton is expected to total 14.2 million acres, up 9 percent from last year. Growers planted 318,200 acres of American-Pima cotton. This is a 3% decrease from last year's number, but 27% higher than the acreage of 2 years ago. Planting in Georgia started extremely slow due to a severely dry spring, but by June 1 was nearly on pace with average. Conversely, Texas experienced a near normal planting season although some replanting was necessary due to wind and hail damage [15].
11.Graph of
World cotton area/World cotton yields/World cotton production/World cotton
consumption[11] Graph of Cotton Prices

12.
CONCLUSION
Cotton
nonwovens can be recycled, re-used or disposed off by natural degradation
conditions. Cotton is a readily renewable resource with long-term supply
assurance. Extensive research works is improving bleached fiber quality and
quantity. Nonwoven industries are producing various types of nonwovens with
different manufacturing techniques, for better production. Cotton share of the
textile fiber market has been steadily increasing and will continue to increase
as cotton-containing items is preferred by the consumers.
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